Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Peru, Pt 2

When I last wrote, we were staying in Mejia, a beach in southern Peru. We were basically staying on a family´s roof, with a beautiful view of the ocean. The moon actually looks differently here! Perhaps this is common knowledge, and unimpressive to some, but I find this extremely interesting. It bends your mind a bit to think of being in a different hemisphere, esp when so many things feel so similar. Ricardo chose that particular place because of the owner. He was really quite charming. When Ric had called, his son answered, then passing it to the mother, then finally to the owner. The whole interaction was so charming, he couldn´t resist.That story came as comfort once I got a look at the beds, noticed open bathroom in the middle of the room and got a good whiff of it all. Thankfully the smell of the ocean was extremely powerful and relaxing.

Then it was time to make our way to Arequipa, a lovely city made primarily of white lava stone. Most large cities have a large plaza de armas in the center, and this one does not disappoint. With large arches on all 4 sides, its quite impressive. There is a beautiful cathedral to the north, and cafes spotted along the plaza. We spent the afternoon at the Monastery, which was built in the 16th century. The monastery is also built with the same rock, though has been painted vivid colors. As you walk through, bright blues surprise you under arches of deep orange. The Monastery is still in use, though of course much smaller than it once was. It was only opened, for the nuns to leave in the 70´s. Meaning before that they would stay secluded, only communicating to the outside world through screens built into the walls. They are now free to go into the city. Can you imagine that first day, going into a city you hadn't seen in years? It was such a peaceful place, it was difficult to leave. I found myself sitting in a small courtyard, green grass, yellow walls, and red roofs...

The city of Arequipa is wonderful to walk. There are quite a few pedestrian streets, cafes, bookstores. The countryside is also something to see. But this applies to all of Peru, not just this area. You often see terraced land, left over from Incan time when they were used for farming. Some are still in use today. Driving you see so many bright colors, not only of the land, but of the people. Bright skirts, hats, shawls are everywhere. Animals too. Llamas. I love seeing them, they all look so inquisitive. The drive from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon, where I am now, was another bumpy drive through the mountains. Walls of rocks line the road, making neat squares as far as you can see.

Colca canyon is beautiful. The summer season is the rainy season, so everything is very green and in bloom. Our friend Mauricio, once again managed to work some magic and booked us at the Casitas del Colca, an incredible 5 star bungalow style hotel in the canyon. Besides the amazing view, the hotel itself was pure luxe. It was a wonderful stay, relaxing and a perfect end to this tour through Peru. I was able to go horseback riding up one of the valleys to a vast view of the canyon. At first I was a bit worried about my horse. He had a "gummy" way of walking as Ricardo called it. When we asked the guide "Esta cansado?" Is he tired?- He just replied that no, he just walked like that! Eventually I found my stride and looked up, WOW. Valley, river, and snow capped mountains greeted us from the top. I took advantage of slow pace of this place to rest up, took many baths in the garden bathroom and was able to do my yoga on the back porch overlooking the valley. Needless to say, it was a highlight.

That next morning we filled up on the delicious buffet breakfast. Leyla and I made sandwiches for the road, common practice on this trip, though felt a bit awkward in this setting. The waiters watch your every move, trying to anticipate your needs, which made things odd when i rolled the sandwiches up in tissue and placed them in our bags. Eyes were adverted. Once a thrifty traveler, always one I suppose. Clearly, we were not their typical clients.

We packed up early from Colca to head back to Lima. It was surprisingly easy to wake up at 5 that morning, in part because of the promise of free breakfast, as previously mentioned, though mainly its so peaceful, you wake refreshed. There were no more late nights out in this place, a nice change. We drove further up into the mountains and saw freshly fallen snow! We had to stop and play in it for awhile before this long drive ahead of us. We actually went from the green canyon, to snow peaked mountains, through desert, and finally all up the coastline seeing Peru's beautiful beeches. This country has been so beautiful to drive.

Time to visit Lima a bit before heading to Buenos Aires! Pisco Sour anyone?

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