One last abrazo from Buenos Aires

As I pack my bags, I am thinking of all the things I could say about Buenos Aires. I could talk about the country's shortage of change and how a trip to the market becomes incredibly difficult and riding the bus impossible without exact change. I could talk about the easy going spirit you find even in such a big city. Perhaps I could explain how little chance I ever have of being on time or eating before 10 pm again after living here. I could tell you all about this amazing little traditional music venue by my place, family owned and packed every night. I could even talk about that moment I sat in the front row of a tango orchestra concert and was so moved by the young musicians that I literally could feel myself taken away with the music. But that is what a city is, a collection of stories and experiences that come together to form a life all around you. I have been extremely lucky to have experienced this city as I have and can recognize what an amazing opportunity it has been. I will miss many things, though not the dog walkers or their trail of destruction.

Mar del Plata

I just returned from a few days at one of Argentina's most popular beaches, Mar del Plata. Fall has begun, so this mainly tourist town was quiet and peaceful. I stayed with my friend Ivan and his family. Ivan, being familiar with the States, referred to Mar del Plata as the Galveston of South America. Interpret that as you will, but I have always loved Galveston, in part because many are quick to criticize the brown waters and humid weather. But alas, as quick as I am to defend Galveston, Mar del Plata is definitely not that. It was beautiful and very peaceful. A highlight was the fish market! Besides the amazingly overpowering smell, they were also sea lions. Really unattractive up close, and a bit scary to be honest. But fun to see!

I love markets. Any and every kind, but open air fruit and veggie markets are a pure treat. Rebecca took me to Santiago's main green market and it was AMAZING. First off, Rebecca managed to drive through the mass of people, veggie carts and vans, which in itself was a sight. I found myself playing the over protective parent, who is hitting the ghost brake on the passenger side, but we made it safe and sound. Then you walk in and its just stand after stand after stand. I wish my days could start like that, always. Huge avocados, beautiful tomatoes, fragrant fruit and juice! Being tow young redheaded girls managed to score us some free lettuce, extra zucchini, bonus tomatoes and all the cat-calls a girl could handle. I think there might have been a marriage proposal in there somewhere as well. Best I didn't look back, I would only love him for the fresh fruit...

Zapallar

With Rebecca and Co. we went to the coast, que lindo! We went to a small beach called Zapallar. It was honestly one of the most beautiful coasts I have seen. It is the end of summer here, and it wasn't very crowded. When I first heard beach, I thought, Bathing suit! sun screen! perhaps a chance to de-very very white myself. But no, turns out it was actually cold! I had to borrow an over sized jacket I found in the little cabin we rented. We had woods, beach and beautiful dark grey rocks lining the clear, and very cold, water. And the asados (bbq)!

Chungungo

I also visited Rebecca, a friend from Texas. She is now living in Santiago with her pololo Vic and her wawa (baby) Sam, or should I say chungungo, a river otter. See the resemblance?

Santiago, mon amour

I recently went to visit some friends in Santiago. What a lovely trip! Santiago is a big city, great for walking. The first thing that struck me was how cars actually stop for you when you cross the street. After nearly being crushed on a few occasions, I have learned in BA to be cautious, overly perhaps, so I couldn't figure out why cars would stop for me. I asked my friend Nicole and she simply said, oh, that's what they do here. Where was I??

I had a wonderful moment going to see a play at the contemporary art museum. Nicole's pololo (novio) Matius had produced a play and we were invited to a sneak peak. So there I was, sitting in a small room, in an old museum, in Santiago, Chile, and it hit me, how interesting life is. Who would think a year ago, even a few months ago that I would find myself there, with such a young, interesting group. The play was very good, though loooong. I'm afraid the last bit was lost on me as I simply thought of the yoga postures I wanted to be doing at that very moment. THEN came Act IV...but back pain goes away and memories linger.

Waking up

Yesterday, I awoke to a rainstorm in BA. It's been sunny and very warm up to this point, so I really can't complain, or perhaps I can...
I had an odd dream, blurry and heavy which didn't want to leave me as I opened my eyes. Dreary morning/ dreary mood. I made my way to the shower, only to find the hot water was out, or used up, or mad at me, something. I made up my mind to suck it up and just do it already, held my breath, and stepped under the stream of freezing water. It wasn't the coldest shower ever, I can remember quite well the hot water going out in January in France one year, it was so cold it hurt. This time was just cold, very cold. Surprisingly, I forgot about my mood, the dream left me and I just felt ALIVE.

La Mudanza

I've just moved to a new apt, or depto as you could say. I'm still in the same area, Palermo, just a few streets up on a very pretty street named Guatamala (to clear up any past confusion, I am not actually living in Guatemala!). I'm living with a nice Argentine, Nico, an indie film maker. Ladies, if you're curious, film-buffs world over seem to gravitate to thick-rimmed glasses and plaid. With new moves, come new lists of fave things. Below is my current:
Good Cabernet in a land of Malbec
A cortado chiquito in the morning
Cobblestone roads
Vines around my windows
Chocolate, as ever
Finding plain yogurt (France ruined me), a pure joy that happens only rarely

Big surprise my lists always seem to revolve around food and wine....
un beso
k

Tomá mate

Tea is one of my favorite things. It resides highly on the list along with good dark chocolate, nice wine and coffee with just a touch of milk. I recently found a nice little tea shop in my neighborhood, hidden of Gorriti, a long street with trendy shops and a lot of construction. It was great to see all the beautiful little tea tins lined up along the walls. It was a little treat, though far from the true tea experience here which is mate. Mate is shared, which alone is a reason to love it. This is important because the taste is a bit...particular. The mate is passed between friends, each turn filling up the cup, or gourd holding the tea. Each person drinks the hot tea, then refills the water, and passes it along. The Argentines are not afraid of sugar, which is often added to the bitter green herbs. I spent a good chunk of yesterday with a few friends in a plaza, sitting around the edges of an empty blue tiled fountain, shoes kicked off, mate in hand. It was a beautiful afternoon in a plaza full of tall trees and children running around. Even though BA is a huge city, you're able to find these secluded places where people say hi and families seem quite relaxed to spend the afternoon. It was a really wonderful moment.

I should also add that my friend Ailin, in charge of this mate outing, has the most beautiful rat tail. The female rat tail is rare, and when done well, quite nice. Once I confessed my envy of her "trenza", I explained the term "rat tail". It took some time to get the translation across successfully, but needless to say, she was not impressed with the English version.

But back to mate. It's quite common to see people sharing mate at work, in a plaza, on a doorstep. This is never something you would order in a cafe, its always something between friends.What a nice thing for tea to mean.

La librería

favorite pastime: bookshops. there is just something about a neighborhood bookshop that just feels like comfort. the smell of the different pages, the narrow aisles, the same people working everyday. i haven't yet begun to build the inevitable stock of books that I will most likely amass by the end of this year, but i have been making frequent stops into my favorite bookshop around the corner and up the next street. there is one even closer called the "crack up" just up the road. the crack up is small and friendly. the fans are always on high though the temperature never seems to raise above 'sweaty'. i like the shop and especially the people, though don't quite feel free enough to wander as i like. so i will normally choose to go the the other bookshop. i call it the 'other one' as i have never, for some reason, remembered the actual name. the store itself is quite large, with walls lined with dark wood shelves that go from the ground to the huge ceilings. large ladders on tracks are used by the staff to search for the book in question and it happens fairly often that one of them will ask you to move out of the way of a sliding ladder headed in your direction. i often have the aim of purchasing something, but just seem to wander through, browsing the argentine literature (as in this is what i should be reading...), before moving on the photography and then end up taking a look over the other random topics they have on display. my block on actually purchasing maybe the simple fact that reading in spanish is not quite an easy task for me and i think it would almost break the allure of looking through the books.
then there's the music. i'm always surprised to hear what the cool kids in the backs seem to dig up to play. it can really be anything, this morning being no exception as an early kinks album blared through the very classic and serene shop. after i left i swung by the closest ice cream shop and treated myself to a sunday afternoon cone of coconut and cafe ice cream. perfect sunday afternoon.

k

it's decided...

i'm growing a rattail.

let the teaching begin...

I am in full swing of my teaching certification course. For those of you who may not what exactly I am doing here (don't worry, i think it's been pretty vague) I am taking a CELTA certification course to teach English. The certificate itself is recognized all over the world and is often a requirement for jobs. SO I am not taking teaching Spanish. That would be impossible and most likely very humorous to see. English I think I have down. I think...

The class is very intensive and I've been working quite a bit, learning fun little bits about auxiliary verbs and modals. The best part though is the practice teaching. We have classes of adult students in the morning and take turns leading the class every other day. It has been really wonderful and I am really enjoying it. The students are great! They range from 20 somethings to students well into their 70's. They have all been super enthusiastic and quite funny. The beautiful thing about teaching in another country is that you are given this window to meet people from other places, different walks of life and really share something. It may sound a bit cheesy, though to be honest it's really that sensation. It does help that we seem to have lucked out with this group in particular. In class on Friday, one of the Nestors- there are two- stopped class to present a rose to the teachers for Valentine's Day and to give a poem about Darwin. It was spectacular. I believe it went something like...

Before, all was darkness
Then God said, DARWIN (Nestor #1 raises his voice and arm in grand gesture)
And all was light


Perhaps a bit off topic and slightly controversial considering the setting, but it was definitely a highlight. I could really talk all day about the students. Actually, come to think of it, I probably do...

The group of people studying with me are all great as well. Most are brits and I find I'm learning new vocab every day. I am fighting the desire to casually throw in words such as knackered, fancy that, and adopt a silly hybrid accent. Oh, and they all really do love biscuits (cookies). It's true.

random observation.

the casual trash drop.
i have noticed that here that most people have perfected what could be called the casual trash drop. this involves said person acting as if they are putting their receipt/empty cigarette carton/random piece of trash into their bag or pocket and then feigning ignorance to the fact that they have just dropped the trash on the ground. its quite sly really and is surprisingly common. i myself have done the one-two-drop myself with things like peach pits or seeds so perhaps it takes on to know one. but beyond the annoying fact that this means there is trash scattered on the sidewalk, it really is pretty humorous to watch the person acting out this charade as I'm sure they are thinking through their head- ok, here i go, just going to put this little wadded up paper in my pocket, here we go, ok just going to assume that didn't fall to the ground there, just going to keep walking....

¡Estoy acá!

I am finally settling in Buenos Aires. I had a very smooth arrival and met Dominic, my friend that I will be staying with for the next month. Driving into town, it hit me that I was going to love this city. Interesting architecture, beautifully colorful graffiti and cobblestone roads greeted me. I am staying in Palermo Soho, a very hip area full of boutiques and cafes. Being summer, the patios are all open and you can see people taking their coffees, or even enjoying some ice cream at one of the many ice cream shops. The style is relaxed here, a nice thing to see. I think it is inevitable that you want to compare your travel experiences with those past, and I find myself doing just that with Buenos Aires and Paris. With these comparisons, I can't help but notice how much easier it is to be in a new city, with a new language this time around. That said, I long for the day I can NOT ask someone to repeat themselves with something simple like "i thought you wouldn't want a plastic bag"- ESP. when conversing with one of the very attractive Argentine men, but with due time.

With a new city, a new color. RED. I dyed my hair the day after I arrived, finding a little shop that looked friendly. Again a flashback, explaining to the woman what color, etc. I wanted immediately brought me back to my first doctor's visit in Paris. "I have pain, in this area, below my face, no breathe, hurt. Red?" Pretty funny in retrospect, and here I am again, communication in basic phrases. A bit risky when you think about the fact I could have turned out like Bozo, but success! I am an official redhead and even have the eyebrows to prove it. This involved a return visit to the salon, once i realized my face seemed to be having an identity crisis. But I did successfully call and explain the dilemma on the telephone, by far the most difficult form of communication. I was proud!

A few things strike me in my first week here: Rat tails and Dog Walkers, not necessarily always together, but at times, yes. As for the former, Dom made a comment that the Argentines seemed a bit behind the times with the party-in-back styles, yet it appears that they are actually just way ahead of us. Are Rat Tails making a comeback? Keep your eyes peeled people. Better yet, start growing those tails now, you may just be on the cutting edge! The dog walkers are another story, you see them all over, sometimes with 8 dogs. It's pretty fun to see, though best to avoid walking behind the pack. For your own safety.

I'll be heading to Cordoba tonight on one of Argentina's deluxe bus lines. They are well known in S. America to be nice and comfy. We shall need it, a good 10 hr ride awaits us. Though it's nothing compared to the kilometers we clocked in Peru.

Classes start next week. Wish me luck!

Peru, Pt 2

When I last wrote, we were staying in Mejia, a beach in southern Peru. We were basically staying on a family´s roof, with a beautiful view of the ocean. The moon actually looks differently here! Perhaps this is common knowledge, and unimpressive to some, but I find this extremely interesting. It bends your mind a bit to think of being in a different hemisphere, esp when so many things feel so similar. Ricardo chose that particular place because of the owner. He was really quite charming. When Ric had called, his son answered, then passing it to the mother, then finally to the owner. The whole interaction was so charming, he couldn´t resist.That story came as comfort once I got a look at the beds, noticed open bathroom in the middle of the room and got a good whiff of it all. Thankfully the smell of the ocean was extremely powerful and relaxing.

Then it was time to make our way to Arequipa, a lovely city made primarily of white lava stone. Most large cities have a large plaza de armas in the center, and this one does not disappoint. With large arches on all 4 sides, its quite impressive. There is a beautiful cathedral to the north, and cafes spotted along the plaza. We spent the afternoon at the Monastery, which was built in the 16th century. The monastery is also built with the same rock, though has been painted vivid colors. As you walk through, bright blues surprise you under arches of deep orange. The Monastery is still in use, though of course much smaller than it once was. It was only opened, for the nuns to leave in the 70´s. Meaning before that they would stay secluded, only communicating to the outside world through screens built into the walls. They are now free to go into the city. Can you imagine that first day, going into a city you hadn't seen in years? It was such a peaceful place, it was difficult to leave. I found myself sitting in a small courtyard, green grass, yellow walls, and red roofs...

The city of Arequipa is wonderful to walk. There are quite a few pedestrian streets, cafes, bookstores. The countryside is also something to see. But this applies to all of Peru, not just this area. You often see terraced land, left over from Incan time when they were used for farming. Some are still in use today. Driving you see so many bright colors, not only of the land, but of the people. Bright skirts, hats, shawls are everywhere. Animals too. Llamas. I love seeing them, they all look so inquisitive. The drive from Arequipa to the Colca Canyon, where I am now, was another bumpy drive through the mountains. Walls of rocks line the road, making neat squares as far as you can see.

Colca canyon is beautiful. The summer season is the rainy season, so everything is very green and in bloom. Our friend Mauricio, once again managed to work some magic and booked us at the Casitas del Colca, an incredible 5 star bungalow style hotel in the canyon. Besides the amazing view, the hotel itself was pure luxe. It was a wonderful stay, relaxing and a perfect end to this tour through Peru. I was able to go horseback riding up one of the valleys to a vast view of the canyon. At first I was a bit worried about my horse. He had a "gummy" way of walking as Ricardo called it. When we asked the guide "Esta cansado?" Is he tired?- He just replied that no, he just walked like that! Eventually I found my stride and looked up, WOW. Valley, river, and snow capped mountains greeted us from the top. I took advantage of slow pace of this place to rest up, took many baths in the garden bathroom and was able to do my yoga on the back porch overlooking the valley. Needless to say, it was a highlight.

That next morning we filled up on the delicious buffet breakfast. Leyla and I made sandwiches for the road, common practice on this trip, though felt a bit awkward in this setting. The waiters watch your every move, trying to anticipate your needs, which made things odd when i rolled the sandwiches up in tissue and placed them in our bags. Eyes were adverted. Once a thrifty traveler, always one I suppose. Clearly, we were not their typical clients.

We packed up early from Colca to head back to Lima. It was surprisingly easy to wake up at 5 that morning, in part because of the promise of free breakfast, as previously mentioned, though mainly its so peaceful, you wake refreshed. There were no more late nights out in this place, a nice change. We drove further up into the mountains and saw freshly fallen snow! We had to stop and play in it for awhile before this long drive ahead of us. We actually went from the green canyon, to snow peaked mountains, through desert, and finally all up the coastline seeing Peru's beautiful beeches. This country has been so beautiful to drive.

Time to visit Lima a bit before heading to Buenos Aires! Pisco Sour anyone?

Roadtrip through Peru, Part 1

January 7, 2008

Greetings from Peru! I am at the southern beach of Peru right now, relaxing after many hours in a stuffed car. The trip has been lovely so far. What a beautiful country! I am traveling with a few Peruvian friends, an Iranian, and a Mexican, so we have a nice mix. My Spanish is shaky at best, but improving as I soak it all in.

I will start by reiterating how beautiful Peru is, with so many diverse climates. We went from desert in Lima, to the beach, into the mountains, and finally to lush and "selva alta" (high jungle) at machu picchu. The beach to start out with was great. We stayed at our friend Ricardo´s family's house. Beautiful white homes lined the beach, with a great rooftop to watch the sunset (and drink some pisco, the local alcohol).We spent a few days in Cusco, a city in the mountains, with red roof tops, great crafts, llamas, farms, and incan ruins. The drive was long, but beautiful through the mountains. We were there for new years and partied with the rest of Peru in the square. Everyone shoots fireworks and runs around the square at midnight. Plus the rain. It was a bit crazy, but fun.

And of course, Machu Picchu. I know there are certain places you see in photos, and think, wow, that´s beautiful but it´s a postcard. But this was...beautiful. No other word. A friend managed to get us tickets on the luxury Oriental Express train to and from the site, so we had an oddly luxe time, with great food, music, dancing and sightseeing all the way. The site itself is high in the mountains, you have the sensation of being perched on top of the mountain tops. From the top, you can see all the way down to the river and the train station. It´s just so green and lush, with cloud patterns shaded on the trees and the ruins blending in oddly well with all around them.


From there, back in the car for another long day driving to Lake Titicaca, where the air is so thin at 4,000 meters. We took a long boat ride across the sprawling lake to the island of Taquile. We longed on the top deck, dozing as we looked at the outstreched water and far off shore. Our boat driver was from the island and showed us around. It took me forever to climb up to the main square because of the altitude, but once I made it, it was worth it. Blue waters stretched forever until you saw the mountains of Bolivia. The island itself is tight knit community. Everything is co-oped and shared. On the way back we stopped at the islands of Uros, floating islands made of straw! It was odd and incredibly interesting. The islands have been in existence since the native people fled from the Spaniards. I have been taking photos, and will be sure to send you the link once I am able to upload them all.

I don´t think I have yet to mention the food, but DELICIOUS. I have had some truly good meals, as well as yummy corn from the markets. We had delicious fresh fish and quinoa soup on Taquile, maybe one of my favorites so far. We will be heading to Arequipa next, a beautiful white stoned town, then to the Colca canyon, deeper than the Grand Canyon. Then finally, back to Lima.

I am thinking of you all and look forward to hearing from you!

Love

K